Frequently Asked Questions

General

Actually, heated air rises in the presence of cooler air.

Heat is simply a form of energy that can be transferred through convection (air), conduction (through an object), and radiation, (from a warm object to a cooler object)

Just as the sun, which is 93 million miles from earth, is most effective when directly overhead, infrared radiant heat is directional, and therefore it is more beneficial to heat from high up on the wall or ceiling which directly heats up the objects and occupants in the room.

  • An infrared heater is an object with a higher temperature which transfers energy to a body with a lower temperature through electromagnetic radiation, generally within a wavelength of 7-12 microns.  The heat is a product of a completely safe spectrum of light that is invisible to our eyes.
  • NOTE:  Our body gives off heat at a wavelength of around 12 microns and our IR heaters emit a wavelength of 7-12 microns, therefore the body easily absorbs the heat in this wavelength, which easily heats water molecules (the human body is made up of ~60% water), and penetrates well below the skin, which is optimal for heating people at room temperature or hot yoga enthusiast alike!
  • Just as the sun heats us our products radiate sun-like warmth to indoor or outdoor spaces, floors, furniture, and most importantly, people.
  • The Infrared Spectrum: Think of infrared light being on a spectrum from short wave to long wave, and visible light/temperature. The shorter the wave, the higher the temperature, the longer the wave, the lower the temperature.
    Short wave infrared:  The sun, which has a surface temperature of 10,000F, visible to the naked eye.
    Medium wave infrared:  A good example of this is our quartz heaters which have a faint glow and a maximum surface temperature of ~900F.
    Longwave infrared:  The remainder of our infrared heaters, for indoor applications (non-glowing) fall into this category, with a surface temperature range of 170-425F.

Infrared encompasses a huge range of temperatures. Saying infrared is bad for your health is analogous to saying that noise is bad for your hearing, and presenting a study that correlates the noise level at a rock concert with damage to eardrums. It’s just not that simple.

There is no empirical evidence from accredited sources which show that far infrared is bad for your health, aging, etc. On the contrary, there is evidence that it helps to increase flexibility, circulation, detoxification, and other health benefits. This is one of the main reasons it has become popular in the far IR sauna and IR yoga industries in particular, of which, our company has worked with over 950 yoga studios worldwide, with none reporting negative health effects.

For more information about infrared safety click here.

Infrared radiant heat offers a variety of health benefits over conventional heating systems (forced-air, heat pumps, electric wall heaters, electric and hot water baseboard heaters, etc.)

  • Air quality – Unlike forced air heating systems, our infrared radiant heating panels do not blow dust or allergens. They do not release any emissions, chemicals or pollutants and help keep the air in your home clean and clear.
  • Therapeutic relief – Odds are you have experienced the soothing feeling of warm summer sun on your skin. Similar to the sun, our heaters, produce radiant heat waves which work to heat up our body, and because the human body is made up of mostly water, this infrared heat transfers effectively and can help gently increase blood circulation, rid the body of toxins and even provide pain relief.

Great question! If you were going to install lights in your house, where would you put them near the floor or in the floor?  No, you would mount them up high on the wall or on the ceiling, and that is one of the advantages of infrared radiant heating, which radiates from the heater to the occupants and objects in the room, and taking up no usable wall or floor space in the process. 

  • Conventional heating systems: (forced-air, heat pumps, electric wall heaters, electric and hot water baseboard heaters, etc.)
    • Noisy, which interrupts the ambiance in a room and sleep
    • Warms a room, but the ceiling is the warmest place due to warm/hot air rising
    • Requires maintenance
    • Often in the way of furniture or curtains/drapes
    • Often expensive to operate
    • Often supplemented with plug-in “space heaters” which can be dangerous and have lead to home fires and deaths
    • Short life-cycle, often less than 15 years, requiring maintenance
    • These can lead to unhealthy indoor air quality, triggering asthma, allergies, etc.
  • Heating Green infrared radiant heating systems:
    • Silent operation, a pleasant ambiance day and night
    • Emit sun-like warmth to the occupants and objects in the room, even the floors!
    • Maintenance-free
    • Mount on the ceiling or high on the walls, no usable space is taken up by furniture, etc.
    • Room by room control, just like using a light switch and a light
    • Often a savings of 20-50% on the operating cost compared to conventional heating systems
    • ~30-year life-cycle
    • 5 years to a lifetime warranty
    • Are conducive to a healthy indoor environment

View infrared heating options

  • Total cost of ownership (TCO)  When considering the total cost of ownership (TCO) – meaning initial cost, installation, annual operating and maintenance costs, and replacement costs, a Ducoterra SolaRay or cove heater can pay for itself in just over 3 years compared to a baseboard heater and in just 7 years compared to cadet-type wall heaters.
  • Heating Green infrared radiant heating panels operate up to 35% more efficiently than wall heaters and 50% more than baseboard heaters.
  •  Over a 30-year life in a home, a wall heater would likely need replacing at 2 to 3 times as their expected lifetime is only 10 years per the NAHB, while our cove and Ducoterra SolaRay panels respectively have a 10-year and lifetime warranty and a 40-year expected lifetime.
  • Ducoterra SolaRay panels and cove heaters work hand in hand with ductless systems are one of the most efficient heating systems on the market today, providing both cost effective heating and cooling.
  • It is often impossible for the ductless system with a head installed in a main living area to effectively heat back bedrooms and bathrooms. Because of this and the cost associated with adding additional ductless heads in bedrooms, homeowners compromise their heating comfort by selecting inexpensive, but less desirable, electric baseboard or wall heaters, to heat their bedrooms and bathrooms.
  • SolaRay electric ceiling-mounted radiant panels and cove heaters can work in combination with a ductless heat pump system, creating a more cost effective heating system while maintaining a high standard of comfort and energy efficiency.

For more information on this click here.

  • First, figure out your total watts, i.e. two 1,000 watt heater = 2,000 watts or 2 kilowatts.
  • Second, confirm your electrical cost/kilowatt hour with your local utility or use electricity local
  • Third, multiply the total kilowatts x the cost/kilowatt hour i.e. 2kw x $.13 (cost/kilowatt hour) = $.26 would be your hourly operating cost.
  • Please note that total operating costs widely vary based on use, geography, weather, the building envelope, controls, and habits of the occupant(s).

At Heating Green, our goal is to provide the best heaters for any heating need. And when we get good information from our customers, the better we can meet their heating needs.

We ask customers to include the following information that will affect the performance of heaters:

  • Geographical area
  • Wall type
  • Ceiling height
  • R-values of insulation
  • Window type and sizes
  • Extreme seasonal weather
  • Customer expectations
  • Fast warm-up time
  • Target temperature, i.e. 105F

General sizing guidelines for sizing for residential and commercial use:

NOTE: When in doubt, it is a great idea to order the next heater size up if there are any unknown variables (i.e. R-values of insulation).

Contact us for a free estimate!

  • Silent operation, a pleasant ambiance day and night
  • Emit sun-like warmth to the occupants and objects in the room, even the floors!
  • Maintenance-free
  • Mount on the ceiling or high on the walls, no usable space is taken up by furniture, etc.
  • Room by room control, just like using a light switch and a light
  • Often a savings of 20-50% on the operating cost compared to conventional heating systems
  • ~30-year life-cycle
  • 5 years to a lifetime warranty
  • Are conducive to a healthy indoor environment
  • Insulate – the better the insulation, the better the heating performance.
  • Seal air leaks – reducing the amount of air that leaves the home is very important
  • Do a blower door test – a great way to determine how much air is entering your home
  • Install a programmable thermostat – an easy way to save money, especially when the home is not occupied.

Electrical

Yes, a plug-in 120 volt heater has a maximum rating of 1,500 watts, and the maximum amount of watts on hard-wired 120v system is 1,920 watts on a 20 amp, 120 volt circuit.

For more detailed information on choosing the right voltage for your heater check out our blog post on this topic.

For residential applications 120 and 240 volt circuits are available.

  • As a general rule, you can fit twice as many watts on a 240v circuit as a 120v circuit
  • 120v is great for projects under 1,920 watts requiring a 20 amp circuit.
  • 240v is great for any projects from a few hundred watts to 3,840 watts requiring a 20 amp circuit.
  • When in doubt, consult with Heating Green or a professional electrician before you start your project.

The most common commercial building electric service in North America is 120/208 volt, (120/240v in older buildings) which is used to power 120 volt plug loads, lighting, and smaller HVAC systems. In larger facilities the voltage is 277/480 volt and used to power single phase 277 volt lighting and larger HVAC loads. In western Canada 347/600V is common. NOTE:  Always have a qualified electrician verify in the field (VIF) what voltages you have in your electrical panel and what it would be best to use with our infrared heaters.

For more information on choosing the best voltage for your heater check out our blog post on this.

Yes, but only by a little.

All electrically powered devices consume watts, and wattage (kilowatts on your power bill) is what you are paying for. Volts and amps are not an important factor related to electrical expenditures in an existing wired building, although when building a new area or adding additional power to an existing area there is a possible savings in material costs and labor as there is twice the capacity of watts on a 240 volt circuit than a 120 circuit.

I.E. using the rule of 80% maximum load of a circuit, a 240 volt / 20 amp circuit could use 16 amps x 240 volts, or 3,840 watts, whereas a 120 volt / 20 amp circuit could use 16 amps x 120 volts or 1,920 watts.

For a more detailed explanation of this question check out our blog post on choosing the best voltage for your heater.

Voltage, wattage, and amperage; or volts (v), watts (w), and amps (a) are terms commonly used to describe and measure electricity.

  • Voltage or Electric Potential is the amount of electrical energy available at a source such as a plug, breaker, or extension cord—essentially how hard electricity is “pushed” through a wire. Thinking in terms of a water hose, voltage would represent the pressure of the water flowing through it.
  • Amperage or Electrical Current is the amount of electricity transferred or moved through a wire or circuit. In a water hose, it would be the volume of the water flowing through it.
  • Wattage or Electrical Power is how much “work” the electricity does, such as energizing the diodes in a LED grow Light. Continuing the water hose analogy, if the water exiting the hose hits a paddle wheel, the resulting rotation (work) of the wheel represents the wattage.

Product

Installation Hardware: 

  • Use toggle bolts that can withstand the weight of the heater
    • Install the heater in the ceiling studs
  • Use lever nuts for connections versus wire nuts 
    • This will ensure the longevity of the connection

 

Position: 

  • Ceiling mount heaters: recommended in the middle of the room which will have the best chance to equally heat the room 
    • Heaters can also go over a window to help offset the cold from the window
  • If you have multiple heaters, place the heaters an equal distance apart to ensure equal distribution of heat
  • If you are wall mounting, be sure to leave 6” in between the top of the heater and the ceiling per manufacturer instructions
  • If you have a sloped ceiling (shed, cathedral, etc.) position the heaters horizontally versus vertically. The steep incline is not recommended for installation. 

 

Thermostat: 

  • Thermostat should be installed in the “line of sight” of the heater 
  • Out of direct sunlight 
  • On an interior wall 

 

Please refer to the installation/operation manual



  1. As soon as the heater arrives: 
    1. Report damage with the delivery carrier if possible 
    2. take photos of the damage to the box
    3. open up the package and take photos of the correlating damage to the heater 
  2. Immediately notify Heating Green with your invoice number and photos so you have the best chance of getting the claim
  3. Heating Green will be your liaison with the manufacturer to get you a replacement
  1. Do not install the heater and find your Heating Green invoice. 
    1. Does the unit you received match the voltage of the one ordered on the invoice? If yes, continue on to number 2
    2. If not, contact Heating Green about receiving the wrong product 
  2. When you consult with a member of the sales team, we always ask for voltage confirmation in writing and highly recommend your electrician measures the voltage on-site to be 100% accurate
    1. If you ordered with a sales representative and had your electrician out to measure the voltage, contact your electrician about the voltage discrepancy
  3.  Do not install the heater and contact Heating Green about exchanging for the correct voltage 

Verify the paid invoice to make sure the heaters were ordered in the correct color. 

 

Take photos of the heaters in the wrong color, and if the boxes were mislabeled. There should also be a packing slip with the order of heaters to additionally verify the color of the heaters. 

 

Contact Heating Green with the photos, and your invoice number. 

 

If the heaters were ordered in the wrong color, this will be treated as an exchange. Do not install the heaters as they will not be able to be returned if they have been installed. 

 

If the heaters were ordered in the correct color but arrived in the wrong color, do not install the heaters and contact Heating Green immediately with photos and we will give further instruction to proceed. 

Heating Green honors the manufacturer’s warranty, Radiant Electric Heat has a 10 year warranty that can be read at this link.  

 

If your heater stops working at any time, have your electrician follow the steps to take a resistance or Ohm test in order to qualify for a warranty replacement. 

 

The manufacturer does not cover any installation or repair costs associated with troubleshooting or replacing heaters. Since the manufacturer does not install the product, all costs of installation or repair are handled by the customer. 


 If you notice any cosmetic flaws, contact Heating Green with photos to receive support.

    1. Heaters may have a slight buzz while operating. This does not indicate an issue with the function of the the heater. 
    2. Identify the sound your heater is making and when it happens. 
      1. Popping and cracking- occurring while the heater is operating 
      2. Creaking- occurring while the heater is warming up or cooling down
  • Before any hands-on troubleshooting is done on the heater: 
  • Remove the heater from power at the electrical panel and not the thermostat
  • Remove the heater from the mounting brackets to safely perform tests 
  1. Popping and cracking- occurring while the heater is operating 
    1. The manufacturer says this is due to stray voltage and a weak ground post connection. 
    2. Call and schedule your electrician to verify: 
      1. Secure ground post within the junction box on the back of the heater 
      2. Reroute the black and white leads within the junction box to go opposite directions. 
      3. Check for stray voltage with a voltmeter 
    3. If the noise persists after following these steps, contact Heating Green with a video of the noise for further instruction. 
  2. Creaking- occurring while the heater is warming up or cooling down
    1. The manufacturer says this is due to thermal expansion. 
    2. If you are not comfortable removing the heater from power or with tools, call your electrician to perform this procedure. 
      1. Loosen the screws on the bezel or outside frame of the heater, just a little bit
      2. The frame/bezel holds the heater together. Be cautious to not remove the entire screw. 
    3. If the noise persists after following these steps, contact Heating Green with a video of the noise for further instruction. 

 

Heating Green is the retailer for the products and will uphold the manufacturer’s warranty. We do our best to work with the manufacturer and our customers to assist with troubleshooting and find solutions. 

 

  1. Check to see if your thermostat’s display is visible
  2. If yes, turn the thermostats temperature up so it is on and verify if heat is radiating from the heater
  3. If no, verify the following: 
    1. The dedicated breaker is on
    2. Is there too many electrical appliances on the same circuit? 
  4. If the breaker is on, call and schedule your electrician to identify the following: 
    1. Power to the thermostat
    2. Power to the heater 
    3. Take an Ohm Test 
    4. Make sure that your electrical circuit is the same voltage as the heater and thermostat, i.e. 120 volts.
  5. Is there power to the thermostat and is the thermostat responding when calling for heat? 
    1. The power to the thermostat should be 120/240/208 your electrician can measure this with a multimeter 
    2. Does your thermostat engage when you press buttons? 
    3. If your thermostat does not respond, you will need a replacement thermostat
  6. If your thermostat is receiving power and responding when engaged, have your electrician confirm power to the heater and take an Ohm Test in order to comply with manufacturer warranty requirements. 
    1. Follow this link, for steps to take an Ohm Test 
  7. If the results of the Ohm test show 1 or OL, contact Heating Green for more information on your product’s warranty. 
  8. If the results show a numerical result, the heater does have resistance and there is a disruption with the electrical circuit that is not within the heater. 
    1. Check for shorts on the electrical line, or issues with the breaker. 
    2. Common issues include: 
      1. Shorts on the wire
      2. Overloaded amperage capacity 
      3. Insufficient connections 
        1. Wire nuts are proven to not hold the connections over time and our manufacturer recommends using lever nuts or lever connectors 



Heating Green is the retailer for the products and will uphold the manufacturer’s warranty. Visit your heater’s product page on Heating Green’s website for manufacturer warranty information.

  1. Peeling on the element and the frame or bezel of the heater may be an indicator of excessive heat and a failure at the connections made in the junction box. 
  2. If the connections were made with wire nuts, your electrician will need to change the connection to lever nuts to avoid further issues. 
  3. Take pictures of the affected heaters and locate your invoice number to contact Heating Green Support. 
  1. In the event of a spark turn off power going to the heater by switching off the breaker that supplies power 
  2. If you have other heaters on different breakers controlled by the same thermostat, those are safe for continued use 
  3. The Cove heaters made by Radiant Electric Heat are designed and tested to fail cold which means after a failure, they will simply not work
  4. Contact your electrician in order to get an assessment of the electrical circuit
  5. If there is a short on the circuit or within the junction box of the heater, your electrician will need to repair this 
  6. If the electrical line is free of shorts or a break in continuity, have your electrician take an Ohm Test to qualify for the Manufacturer’s Ten Year Warranty 
  7. Contact Heating Green with the Ohm test results (a picture of the actual test) regarding your warranty. Please have your invoice number and order details ready.

Visit our Operation Guide for troubleshooting information and additional information on using your heating system for hot yoga. 

  1. Measure the surface temperature of the heaters to confirm if they are the correct operating temperature
    1. Wall mount cove: 300-350°
    2. Ceiling mount cove: 350-400°
    3. Ceramic ceiling:375-425°
  2. If a group of heaters are measuring room temperature: 
    1. Check the breaker to make sure all dedicated circuits are on
    2. If your relays are easily accessed, check the relays and make sure the light is illuminated while the thermostat is calling for heat
  3. If your relays are not easily accessible, call your electrician to verify if the relays are working. 
  4. If a relay is out, the relay will need to be replaced. 
    1. Once replaced, the heaters will work. 
    2. Your electrician can provide the relay in the best interest of time. Heating Green uses Functional Devices 20 amp or 30 amp relays. 
    3. If your electrician cannot source these, they can be purchased from Heating Green using the above link. 
  5. If all relays are functioning or the heaters are on different relays, have your electrician take an Ohm Test to qualify for warranty replacements. Use the form on this page to submit your warranty request. 
  6. When multiple heaters are affected, this typically points to a deeper problem with the connections to the heater or possibly a short elsewhere on the circuit. 
    1. Have your electrician replace all wire nut connections with lever nuts to prevent future issues. 
    2. A short anywhere on the circuit can affect all heaters connected in the circuit.

 

  1. Turn the heater off and wait for the surface temperature to cool before touching the heater 
  2. Once the heater is cool, use a microfiber cloth to wipe away the soot 
  3. You can also use a soft cleanser like Bar Keeper’s Friend to get the mark off 
  4. This can be caused by candles, or oil diffusers being used while the heater is in use. The particles from the candles/oil diffusers combust on the surface of the heater while on and leaves a mark. 
  5. This is only cosmetic and should not affect the operation of the heater.

 

  1. If your heater is plugged in, there may be too many electrical appliances plugged in on the same circuit breaker. 
    1. Limit the amount of appliances on the circuit breaker and re-try the heater
    2. If the problem continues, contact your electrician
  2. If your heater is hard-wired, review the following yourself: 
    1. Does the amperage of the heater fall under 80% capacity of the size of the circuit breaker?
    2. Wattage / voltage = amperage capacity of the heater 
      1. Amperage draw may be increased upon start-up and should lower a few minutes after initial start-up 
    3. Does the voltage of the heater match the circuit breaker voltage? (you can find the voltage of the heater on the back of the unit or on your paid invoice) 
  3. Contact your electrician to review the circuit breaker and the above details 
    1. If the amperage of the circuit breaker cannot accommodate the heater, the wiring will have to increase 
    2. If the voltage of the heater does not match the electrical service on-site, new heaters will have to be purchased in the correct voltage or the voltage in-site will have to be adjusted
    3. Have your electrician replace all wire nut connections with lever nuts to prevent future issues. 
    4. A short anywhere on the circuit can affect all heaters connected in the circuit.
  1. Turn your thermostat up at least 5° F above room temperature
  2. After 5-10 minutes, take a surface temperature reading of the heater using an infrared thermometer
    1. Ceiling mounted heater should have a surface temperature reading from 350-400° F
    2. Wall mounted coves have a surface temperature reading of 300-350° F
  3. If your heaters are reading the correct surface temperature, make sure the thermostat is working by confirming that: 
    1. The thermostat is receiving power 
    2. The thermostat is following your schedule 
    3. Set the temperature lower on your thermostat and see if the room will reach a lower ambient temperature 
  4. If your thermostat and heaters are working properly, you may need additional heaters or additional insulation in your space to reach the desired temperature range
    1. Did you talk to a Heating Green representative before purchase? 
    2. Did you give them accurate details about your desired room temperature and the size of your room? 
  5. If your heaters are not reading the correct surface temperature (room temperature or 200° F) 
    1. Confirm the voltage of the heater and your electrical service. If the heaters are not receiving the correct amount of power this would lead to a lower surface temperature 
      1. Ex: 240v heater only hooked up to 120v power measuring half the expected surface temperature 
    2. Have your electrician take an Ohm Test of the heater to ensure the heat is running properly. 

If the heater receives a 1 or OL reading, use the warranty form on the Ohm test link to submit your warranty request with Heating Green

  1. Discontinue use of the heater until it is verified that the wiring is safe to use 
  2. Confirm with your electrician or installer if the heater and the hardware they used was: 
    1. Secured to studs in the ceiling
    2. Used hardware that is rated for the weight of the heater 
    3. Drywall thickness should also be confirmed before installing the heater to ensure it can withstand the heat and weight of the heater
  3. If the wiring is not strained and the heater is secured in studs, the heater is safe for use and the drywall is cosmetic and should be repaired by your installer

 

    1. By nature, infrared heat takes time to increase the air temperature because it works the same way the sun does. It radiates heat to warm up the mass around it and the air temperature increases as the mass in the room heats up. 
    2. Heaters should feel hot and generate heat almost immediately and the heater should feel hot within 5 minutes. 
    3. We recommend giving the room from 30 minutes to 2 hours to reach your desired temperatures
      1. This also depends on what your desired temperature is set at and the difference between the starting room temperature
      2. If you are using the heaters for hot yoga it will take closer to 2 hours to achieve your temperature
    4. If your heater is taking longer than the recommended time frame, measure the surface temperature using an infrared thermometer. This will ensure that the heater is running at the correct operating temperature range. 
      1. Wall mounted cove heaters: 300-350°
      2. Ceiling mounted cove: 350-400°
      3. SolaRay: 175-250°
      4. ILO: 150-250°
      5. Heatstorm/Versa: 150-250°
    5. If your heater is measuring at the correct surface temperature, you need additional heaters to reach your desired air temperature 
    6. If your heater is not reaching the operating surface temperature, confirm the following: 
      1. Correct amount voltage to the heater 
      2. Connections to heater are secure in the junction box
      3. Have your electrician take an Ohm test to make sure the heater is operating as it should
    7. If your heater is not working as it should and receiving an OL Ohm test, reach out to Heating Green about your heater’s warranty 

Visit our Operation Guide which goes over troubleshooting information in order to ensure your heaters are working as they should be by reading the operating surface temperature. 

 

If your heaters are working as they should, check out the settings on your thermostat and schedule if your thermostat is programmable. Look for changes in settings, temporary holds, conflicting schedules to see if the operation is in error at the thermostat. 

 

Review the estimate details from your sales rep to make sure the information given is accurate. While there are a few factors that go into the right heaters for your space, square footage and insulation are the most important.  Verify your square footage is accurate to the details given to the sales person during your sales inquiry. 

 

Contact your contractor about adding insulation to your room. There may be significant heat loss in your room. Even when sufficient heat is pumped into a room, if the seal of the room is not strong, the heat will just be leaving the room which is why you would not be reaching temperature. Vents, gaps in doors, single pane windows, concrete floors and walls all may require additional insulation to further heat the room. 

 

Additional heaters may be required to achieve the desired room temperature. Our sales representatives give an average estimate of how much wattage it will take to reach the desired temperature. Some customers may disregard the estimate and get fewer heaters than recommended. Some customers decide to get more heaters than recommended to ensure they reach their desired temperature. 

  1. Most likely cause is a failed connection in the junction box. Our manufacturer recommends using lever nuts for these connections whereas most electricians use traditional wire nuts. With traditional wire nuts, overtime, connections can degrade because of the continuous heating up and cooling down of the heater. The more the heater is used, the earlier this can happen to connections depending on how secure the connections are. Lever nuts are highly recommended as they drastically reduce the chances of a failed connection. Also, since the 12/10 AWG wire is being connected to the stranded wire in the junction box, the twisting of wire nuts doesn’t connect two different wires for extended periods of time. Lever nuts are able to make the connection between larger and smaller stranded wires for a long-term solution. 
  2. Circuit failure. In cases where the electric circuit inside the heater has failed, your heater will read an OL reading.
  1. Do not install the heater and find your Heating Green invoice. 
    1. Does the unit you received match the voltage of the one ordered on the invoice? If yes, continue on to number 2
    2. If not, contact Heating Green about receiving the wrong product 
  2. When you consult with a member of the sales team, we always ask for voltage confirmation in writing and highly recommend your electrician measures the voltage on-site to be 100% accurate
    1. If you ordered with a sales representative and had your electrician out to measure the voltage, contact your electrician about the voltage discrepancy
  3.  Do not install the heater and contact Heating Green about exchanging for the correct voltage
  1. As soon as the heater arrives: 
    1. Report damage with the delivery carrier if possible 
    2. take photos of the damage to the box
    3. open up the package and take photos of the correlating damage to the heater 
  2. Immediately notify Heating Green with your invoice number and photos so you have the best chance of getting the claim
  3. Heating Green will be your liaison with the manufacturer to get you a replacement

Installation Hardware: 

  • Ducoterra, manufacturer, provides all installation hardware needed
  • Please use all the installation hardware provided 
    • Toggle bolts: 1/8″ diameter round head 3″ length
    • ~3/8″ flat nylon washer 
    • ~⅛” screws for junction box
    • Single gang junction box
    • Screw caps 

 

Position:

  • SolaRays are installed flush to the ceiling and there will need to be a hole cut out of the drywall for the junction box
  • SolaRays can be installed wood joists or wood ceilings 
  • The SolaRay will need to be secured to studs in the ceiling to support the weight 
  • We recommend a few inches of space in between adjacent SolaRay heaters and the ceiling
  • For all Intertek required clearances visit the SolaRay Product page and review all spec sheets and installation documents
  • Heaters installed not according to Manufacturer and Intertek requirements will not be covered under warranty

 

Thermostat

  • Double Pole thermostats are recommended 
  • Thermostat should be installed in the “line of sight” of the heater 
  • Out of direct sunlight 

 

Please refer to the installation manual for all installation information



I am having difficulty with the shipment of my order

 

  • Confirm the address that was used for the shipping address on your paid invoice to make sure it needs to be changed. 
  • Read correspondence with the Sales Rep or contact heating Green Fulfillment (orders@heatinggreen.com) to see what your product lead time is. Heaters are made to order. 

 

  • Check your email to see if your have received tracking information from the respective manufacturers depending on what was ordered: 
    • Radiant Electric Heat (cove or ceramic ceiling heaters) 
    • Jackson Systems (Thermostats, relays, transformers) 
    • FedEx (SolaRay heaters)
    • PirateShip or UPS (thermostat or a heater stand) 

If you have received tracking information, check it to see if the item is in transit yet. 

 

If you have not received tracking information, contact Heating Green and request an address change with our manufacturer. Please allow 2-3 business days for the change. Often it take a few days to coordinate with manufacturers. 

 

If you have received tracking information and your order is in transit, it is in your best interest to contact the carrier directly to put in the address change as soon as possible. Once in transit, there is no guarantee that the address will be changed or will make it by the estimated delivery date.

  1. Check to see if your thermostat’s display is visible
  2. If yes, turn the thermostats temperature up so it is on and verify if heat is radiating from the heater
  3. If no, verify the following: 
    1. The dedicated breaker is on
    2. Is there too many electrical appliances on the same circuit? 
  4. If the breaker is on, call and schedule your electrician to identify the following: 
    1. Power to the thermostat
    2. Power to the heater 
    3. Take an Ohm Test 
    4. Make sure that your electrical circuit is the same voltage as the heater and thermostat, i.e. 120 volts.
  5. Is there power to the thermostat and is the thermostat responding when calling for heat? 
    1. The power to the thermostat should be 120/240/208 your electrician can measure this with a multimeter 
    2. Does your thermostat engage when you press buttons? 
    3. If your thermostat does not respond, you will need a replacement thermostat
  6. If your thermostat is receiving power and responding when engaged, have your electrician confirm power to the heater and take an Ohm Test in order to comply with manufacturer warranty requirements. 
    1. Follow this link, for steps to take an Ohm Test 
  7. If the results of the Ohm test show 1 or OL, contact Heating Green for more information on your product’s warranty. 
  8. If the results show a numerical result, the heater does have resistance and there is a disruption with the electrical circuit that is not within the heater. 
    1. Check for shorts on the electrical line, or issues with the breaker. 
    2. Common issues include: 
      1. Shorts on the wire
      2. Overloaded amperage capacity 
      3. Insufficient connections 
        1. Wire nuts are proven to not hold the connections over time and our manufacturer recommends using lever nuts or lever connectors 



Heating Green is the retailer for the products and will uphold the manufacturer’s warranty. Visit your heater’s product page on Heating Green’s website for manufacturer warranty information.

Before any work is done on the heater, turn off the power to the heater at the breaker and be sure the heater has completely cooled off. 

 

  • Noisy heaters typically point to a grounding issue. Have your electrician access the junction box on the back of the heater and ensure the ground post is secure. If the ground post is not secure, this can cause stray voltage and present as a buzzing. This can also happen on larger levels, like the grounding of that specific circuit or the grounding of the site building. 

 

  • The toggle bolts used to secure the heater in the ceiling may have been over torqued and are not allowing the heater the room for proper thermal expansion. If you are comfortable with using a power drill and screwdriver, follow this video to remove the plugs that cover the screws. After the plugs have been removed, use your screwdriver to slightly loosen the screws. 

 

  • Is your heater controlled by a double pole thermostat? These have been shown to reduce the noise of a live circuit that carries power to the heater. Double pole thermostats are only available to 240 volt installations and have a wattage limit of 3600. Single pole thermostats are used for 120v installations and for heater applications that require 4000 watts. Your thermostat model or product paperwork will tell you what pole your thermostat is or invoice if purchased through Heating Green. 

 

  • When the initial installation was done, did your electrician use the nylon washers that are provided by the manufacturer? These small washers provide a cushion to the layers of metal and can reduce the noise. 

Turn off the power at the breaker going to the heater before fixing the hardware or making adjustments of the position of the heater. Turn off the breaker also to prevent live wires from being exposed in the ceiling. 

 

Confirm with your electrician that they used the all provided hardware from the manufacturer and used the recommended installation pattern with ceiling studs. The electrician or installer should have made sure the weight of the panel would be supported by the correct hardware and by ceiling studs. 

 

Drywall may be thinner or more brittle in some rooms versus others and this can also affect the panels ability to be secured in the ceiling. 

 

Contact your electrician or installer to review their installation and secure the heater back in the ceiling. 

 

If the position of your heater needs to be adjusted, follow this video from the manufacturer about how to remove the screw cover plugs



Your SolaRay heater has small vents on the side that can push air out. When there is dust in the air or on the ceiling, the air pushes out and can cause a soot-like appearance. 

 

This is solely cosmetic and can be wiped off the ceiling. 

 

Wait until the heater is completely cool, and using a microfiber cloth wipe the marks on the ceiling until they are gone. 

 

Your SolaRay heater can also be wiped off and cleaned once it is completely cool. 

 

 

Before the heater is worked on or moved, turn off power at the breaker and make sure the heater is completely cool. 

 

 If you are comfortable with using a power drill and screwdriver, follow this video to remove the plugs that cover the screws. After the plugs have been removed, use your screwdriver to slightly loosen the screws.

 

We always recommend using a licensed electrician to remove and install the heaters to make sure the installation is safe and follows local electrical codes. 



 

Before the heater is worked on or moved, turn off power at the breaker and make sure the heater is completely cool. 

 

 If you are comfortable with using a power drill and screwdriver, follow this video to remove the plugs that cover the screws. After the plugs have been removed, use your screwdriver to slightly loosen the screws.

 

We always recommend using a licensed electrician to remove and install the heaters to make sure the installation is safe and follows local electrical codes. 



Using an infrared thermometer, take a surface temperature reading of the heater while operating to see if the SolaRay heater is working correctly. The surface temperature should read from 175-250° F. 

 

If your heaters are working as they should, check out the settings on your thermostat and schedule if your thermostat is programmable. Look for changes in settings, temporary holds, conflicting schedules to see if the operation is in error at the thermostat. 

 

Review the estimate details from your sales rep to make sure the information given is accurate. While there are a few factors that go into the right heaters for your space, square footage and insulation are the most important.  Verify your square footage is accurate to the details given to the sales person during your sales inquiry. 

 

Contact your contractor about adding insulation to your room. There may be significant heat loss in your room. Even when sufficient heat is pumped into a room, if the seal of the room is not strong, the heat will just be leaving the room which is why you would not be reaching temperature. Vents, gaps in doors, single pane windows, concrete floors and walls all may require additional insulation to further heat the room. 

 

Additional heaters may be required to achieve the desired room temperature. Our sales representatives give an average estimate of how much wattage it will take to reach the desired temperature. Some customers may disregard the estimate and get fewer heaters than recommended. Some customers decide to get more heaters than recommended to ensure they reach their desired temperature. 

We get a lot of questions about the Ecobee so we’ve set up a separate FAQ just for the Ecobee!

Fulfillment

Lead times vary from heater to heater. Some take 2-3 weeks to ship and others take 4-6 weeks to ship so please plan your remodel accordingly. The following factors play a big role in how long it takes for heaters to ship:

  • Quantity of heaters: 3 heaters will ship faster than 13 heaters.
  • Voltage specification: 120v/208v/240v/277v are common voltages, anything out of the ordinary (220v) takes a little longer to produce
  • Location: International shipments will take longer due to customs.

For the most current, accurate information, reach out to orders@heatinggreen.com or sales@heatinggreen.com

 

For an updated status report on your order, please email orders@heatinggreen.com

Heaters and controls ship from different vendors so they won’t arrive together. Generally, controls are shipped within 1-2 days of ordering. You may request controls being shipped to a different address than your heaters.

If you wish to cancel your order, please reach out to orders@heatinggreen.com

If your order has not yet shipped, please email orders@heatinggreen.com to change the ship to address. Please note that additional shipping charges may be applied.

Yes, if you live near our vendor(s) you may avoid shipping costs if you pick up the product yourself. If you would like to do so, please email orders@heatinggreen.com

If you find out, after placing an order, that your voltage changed, please email orders@heatinggreen.com or call Danielle at 360-715-4328 x105.

  1. Do not install the heater and find your Heating Green invoice. 
    1. Does the unit you received match the voltage of the one ordered on the invoice? If yes, continue on to number 2
    2. If not, contact Heating Green about receiving the wrong product 
  2. When you consult with a member of the sales team, we always ask for voltage confirmation in writing and highly recommend your electrician measures the voltage on-site to be 100% accurate
    1. If you ordered with a sales representative and had your electrician out to measure the voltage, contact your electrician about the voltage discrepancy
  3.  Do not install the heater and contact Heating Green about exchanging for the correct voltage 
  1. Do not install the heater and find your Heating Green invoice. 
    1. Does the unit you received match the voltage of the one ordered on the invoice? If yes, continue on to number 2
    2. If not, contact Heating Green about receiving the wrong product 
  2. When you consult with a member of the sales team, we always ask for voltage confirmation in writing and highly recommend your electrician measures the voltage on-site to be 100% accurate
    1. If you ordered with a sales representative and had your electrician out to measure the voltage, contact your electrician about the voltage discrepancy
  3.  Do not install the heater and contact Heating Green about exchanging for the correct voltage

Support

For programming your Yoga Thermostat, please see the Operation Manual and refer to pp. 2-8

Please refer to p.4 in the Installation Manual:*

You will need a small flathead screwdriver or coin to remove the “faceplate”. The switches are located on the backside of the “faceplate”.

Depending on which thermostat you have, you will most likely need to disable the Adaptive Recovery or Smart Home Recovery & Smart Home/Away functions.

For Adaptive Recovery (Programmable Yoga Thermostat):

1. Following the instructions at the top of p.8

2. Look for the symbol, OS 1. *If your thermostat reads OS 0, then the system is off. If it reads OS 1, proceed to Step 3

3. Using the arrow buttons, change the 1 to 0

4. Press Mode to exit the menu

For Smart Home Recovery/Smart Home/Away (Ecobee):

From the thermostat/app –

1. Press the Main Menu icon

2. Press Sensors

3. Press Disable

4. Navigate to Settings -> Preferences

5. Press Heating Smart Recovery

6. Press Disable

7. Exit Menu

From the online portal –

1. Press Sensors

2. Press Disable

3. Navigate to Settings -> Preferences

4. Press Heating Smart Recovery

5. Press Disable

6. Exit Menu

1. Check to be sure that the thermostat is properly affixed to the terminals.

2. If it is, then check that the thermostat is receiving power from the electrical panel.

3. If the thermostat is receiving power, 24 volts min., then the thermostat may not be working.

If your thermostat is still under warranty, contact us for replacement.

Warranties:

HG122 Yoga thermostat – 5 years

Ecobee – 3 years

Aube (manual or programmable) – 3 years

Mysa – 2 years

EConnect – 5 year warranty

Your heater(s) aren’t working (not heating or not cooling) and you don’t know how to identify the issue, follow these easy steps to try and rule out the issue:

Check your thermostat:

  • Does it seem to have power?
  • Yes? Continue to Step 2
  • No? Check power to thermostat

Is the surface area hot/warm?:

  • Yes?
    • Check the programming on the thermostat – it could be set on manual mode rather than listening to the programmed schedule – make sure your thermostat is doing what you set it to do
    • Relay may be stuck in the open position
  • No?
    • Need to have an electrician test that the heaters are receiving power
    • Check that the relays are working properly (connection from the thermostat to the heaters (Grey plastic box approx. 5”sq.w/red indicator light on the top))
      • How to check the relays:
        • If the red indicator light is on, the relay is functioning. (*Note: Relay be stuck in the on position)

Electrician says the heaters are getting power?

  • Yes?
    • Refer to above section (Check the programming on the thermostat)
    • Test the resistance of the heaters (should be done by an electrician)
  • No?
    • Check the circuit at the electrical panel to ensure connection to heaters
    • Check all connections between electrical panel and heater

Checking the resistance of the heaters

  • Test the resistance using an Ohm meter with the heater disconnected from power
    • Report number to your Heating Green rep.
  • Ohm reading equals infinity or open
    • Heater element has likely failed
    • Discuss warranty options with your Heating Green rep.

First, turn the heaters on to full power and make sure they are let them run for 15 minutes, and while they are still heating use an infrared thermometer to test the surface temperature of the heater.

The maximum surface temperature of each heater should be as follows:

1. Cove heater – wall mount ~340F.

2. Cove heater – ceiling mount ~ 425F.

3. Ceramic Ceiling heater ~425F.

4. Ducoterra SolaRay heater ~175-200F.

Second, if the surface temperatures of your heaters more than 5% lower than what they should be, there may be a voltage issue. Have an electrician measure the voltage going to your heaters to ensure that it matches the voltage specificiation of the heaters.

Ducoterra SolaRay heaters: It is best practice to lay the heaters on the long edge, preferrable againts the wall.

Cove, Ceramic Ceiling, Berko Go-Anywhere heaters can lay flat.

Common specification for residential applications is 14-2 wire on a 15 amp circuit @120 or 240 volts, and 12-2 wire on a 20 amp circuit at 120 or 240 volts.

Note: Work with a qualified electrician if you are unsure of the NEC and best practices to ensure safety and that your heaters will work properly.

If you have technical support issues please click here.

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