Troubleshooting Guide

• Use an Infrared thermometer that can reach up to 500° F and take the temperature reading ~10 minutes after turning on the heat, pointing the laser in the middle of the panel.
• Due to fluctuating voltage, temperatures will vary. Please view the table below for reference.
• Room temperature or significantly lower surface temperature readings will need to be followed up with an Ohm Test.

• The relay(s) have an illuminated red light when the heaters are on and are dark when power is off.
• If the red light is not illuminated when calling for heat, your relay will need to be replaced.

• Linked here is our Ohm Test Steps which will walk you and your electrician through what we need in order to warranty the element of your heater!

Ohm Test Steps

• OL or an Open Loop reading will qualify for a warranty replacement. This tells us that the continuous circuit on the element is “open” and cannot work, meaning replacing the element will make the heater work again.
• The heater is similar to a lamp, and the element is the light bulb. When the Ohm test result is OL (open-loop) this means the light bulb/element is out. Replacing the element instead of replacing the entire heater is similar to replacing the lightbulb instead of having to buy an entire lamp!
• Once we receive your warranty request, we will be in touch with an expected ship date.

• If your heater(s) are reading “normal” ohm results, but are still not heating have your electrician check power & connections going into the transformer and thermostat.

• Please review the environmental aspects of your space! Environmental factors often contribute to heat loss despite sufficient heat output.
• Review these best practices to explain the role of these factors:
  • Insulation
  • Square footage of space
  • Aesthetics or unique features (concrete floors, windows, mirrors, high ceilings, etc.)
  • Target temperatures & warm-up times