SolaRay-D Infrared Heating Panel – steel – ceiling, T-bar or suspended mount – 500w and 750w – traditional or Wi-Fi controls
$425.00 – $445.00
- A low-profile and clean radiant heating solution for 2’x4′ drop ceilings.
- Great for commercial spaces like hot yoga studios or offices.
- These panels are just like our traditional SolaRay heaters
- Mounts from the back of the heater, no holes on the face
- 23 ¾” x 47 ¾” x 1.0”
- Save 30-50% on energy costs
- Lifetime warranty
- Made in USA
How much heat do I need?
- Supplemental: 3 – 5 watts/sq.ft.
- Primary: 6 – 8 watts/sq.ft.
- Yoga Studio: 15 – 30 watts/sq.ft.
What makes the SolaRay special?
The SolaRay heater contains a layer of one of the most efficient insulations in the world called “Pryogel”. This space-age material combines Aerogel with reinforced fibers. This is what makes the SolaRay the world’s thinnest infrared heating panel and one of the most efficient. All the of the heat is transferred where it needs to be.. warming you and your room.
The SolaRay makes no noise, emits no VOC, and has a lifetime warranty. It will seamlessly blend into any room and can easily be painted to match your interior.
How much heat do I need?
- Supplemental heat source: 3 – 5 watts/sq.ft.
- Primary: 6 – 8 watts/sq.ft.
- Yoga Studio: 15 – 30 watts/sq.ft.
Features & Benefits:
- 1/2″ “thin”, the lowest profile in the industry
- Energy savings of 20-50% over traditional heating systems
- Now 50% – 60% lighter than the previous-generation panel
- Mounts flat against ceiling or can be suspended
- Maximum surface temperature: 200° F/93C
- Made in the USA
- UL/ETL (Approved for the US and Canada)
- Far infrared spectrum (FIR) heater
Pays for itself in energy savings and requires no maintenance
- How does this compare to other heating panels?
- Hard wired 120 or 240 volts. NOTE: Does not plug into a 120-volt electrical outlet.
- Controlled with hard-wired, wall-mounted line voltage thermostat
- Available in powder coated white and can be painted with water-based interior paint
- Designed and manufactured in Washington state
- Lifetime warranty, the longest in the industry
- Intertek ETL for US and Canadian certified
- Additional voltages available. Please contact us
1) Our selection of thermostats allows you to heat only the rooms that are in use, cutting your energy usage and saving you money.
2) The 1/2″ “thin” panel mounts in the 2’x4′ frame of a drop ceiling
SolaRay Heating Panel Specifications:
NOTE: Specifications are shown at 240 volts, also available at 120 and 208 volts.
Size | Watts | Amps | BTUs |
22.5″x48″ at 120v | 500 | 4.2 | 1,705 |
22.5″x48″ at 240 v | 500 | 2.1 | 1705 |
22.5″x48″ at 120v | 750 | 6.2 | 2560 |
22.5″x48″ at 240v | 750 | 3.1 | 2560 |
- Why SolaRay?
- SolaRay Brochure
- SolaRay-D Brochure
- SolaRay outperforms wall and baseboard heaters
- Supplementing your current heaters
- Lifetime warranty
Technical Info
Case Studies
How radiant heat works
Heating panels add sun-like warmth… read more
How Much Insulation Do I Need?
When it comes to insulation we typically tell people that more is better. Having more insulation and higher R-values will help retain warm temperatures in the winter and cool temperatures in the summer so you’re saving money on energy costs year-round.
Click here to find the insulation minimum requirement in your state and county.
In the average American home, 45 percent of the utility bill can be attributed to heating costs. With proper insulation, you can decrease your heating bill while increasing the warmth and comfort in your home.
There are some general guidelines that outline how much insulation you should have in your space. Things like your location, elevation and average temperature range will play a big factor into how much you should insulate. A home in Phoenix, AZ is going to require less insulation than one in Buffalo, NY. The following map and chart from the U.S. Department of Energy provide a good guideline for how much insulation you will need in your area. You can also click here to find the minimum insulation requirement in your state and county.
Types of Insulation
The market is so flooded with options for insulation that deciding on one can be a daunting task. However, exploring the features and benefits of each can help narrow the choices down. Ultimately, it will come down to what will fit in your space, your budget and what R-values you need. Generally speaking, we suggest getting the most insulation you can. When it comes to insulation, more will always help maintain your desired temperatures and keep your heating bills down!
Batts – Batts are one of the most common types of insulation due to their ease of installation and relatively low cost. They are made to fit between joists and rafters. Batts insulation typically comes in blankets or will and can be made of a variety of materials such as fiberglass, wool, cotton and even soy. It’s a great choice for DIY projects.
R Values – 3.0-4.0 per inch (Depending on Material)
Common Uses – Walls, Foors, Ceilings
Blown-In – Blown-in or loose-fill insulation consists of fiberous strands of fiberglass or cellulose that are blown into ceilings or walls with a special machine. This type of insulation can be installed as a DIY project with rented equipment or you can hire a professional.
R Values – 2.2-3.8 per inch (Depending on Material)
Common Uses – Walls, Ceilings
Spray Foam – Spray Foam insulation is a type of liquid that expands into a foam when applied. It can be sprayed into walls, floors and ceilings and will fill those hard-to-reach nooks and crannies. While spray cans of foam insulation can be bought for insulating very small areas, such as around pipes and windows, professional installation is needed for larger applications.
R Values – 3.5-6.5 per inch (Depending on Material)
Common Uses – Walls, Foors, Ceilings
Structural Insulated Panels (SIPS) – SIPS consist of an insulating material, such as foam, sandwiched by particle board sheets. These sheets typically come in 4’x8’ configurations and are most often used for new construction. They are great due to their ability to insulate an entire wall, but can be expensive to install and to not lend well to remodels or retrofits.
R Values – 3.8-7.7 per inch (Depending on Material)
Common Uses – Walls, Ceilings
Where to Insulate
For optimal efficiency, your home should be insulated from the attic ceiling to the basement floor. For tips on where to concentrate insulation consider this graphic from the Department of Energy.
- 1: Unfinished Attic – Insulate between and over the floor joists and around attic access door (1a).
- 2: Finished Attic – Insulate between studs of knee walls (2a), between studs and rafters of exterior walls (2b), and ceilings with cold overhead spaces (2c). Extend insulation into joist space (2d).
- 3: Exterior Walls – Insulate walls between rooms, garages, storage areas (3a); above ground level foundation walls (3b); foundation walls in heated basements (3c).
- 4: Floors – Insulate floors above cold spaces such as vented crawl spaces and unheated garages. Also insulate floors cantilevered beyond the exterior wall below (4a); slab flors built directly on the ground (4b); foundation walls of unvented crawl spaces (4c). Extend into joists (4d).
- 5: Band Joists
- 6: Windows & Doors– Seal and caulk around windows and doors.
Seal Air Leaks
Another key component to properly insulating your home involves making sure it’s well sealed. Air leaks around plumbing vents, doors, windows and other culprits allow cold air to enter, and heated air to escape your home. By sealing these areas, you can improve your heating efficiency. The following image from energy.gov shows some areas prone to air leaks.
Do a Blower Door Test
You can test for air leaks in your home by doing a blower door test. A professional energy auditor will place “blower door” in your doorway. This is an instrument containing a fan that pulls air out of your home and a series of gauges to measure air pressure. This creates a pressure gradient between your home and the air outside, which allows the auditor to pinpoint air leaks in your home. This is illustrated by the graphic to the right, provided by energy.gov.
Energy Tips
Our heating products are a great start to conserving energy, but there is always more you can do to keep those utility bills lower.
Use a programmable thermostat – You can program these to turn your heaters on and off at set times. For example, you can set them to turn on before you get up in the morning, shut off while you’re at work and turn back on before you get home in the evening.
Insulation is key – Any heating or cooling system will perform best when well insulated. To get the best performance out of your heaters make sure your space is properly insulated. For more on how to insulate your home check out this link from energy.gov
Reduce drafts – Air leaks around plumbing vents, doors, windows and other culprits allow cold air to enter, and heated air to escape your home. By sealing these areas, you can improve your heating efficiency. The following image from energy.gov shows some areas prone to air leaks.